FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What is taxidermy?

From ancient Greek, "taxidermy" translates to "arranging skin" or “moving skin”. (“taxi”-moving or arranging, “derma”-skin). In traditional taxidermy, the preserved hide of an animal is mounted on a form so it resembles the animal as it was when it was alive. Aside from the skin or hide, all other parts of the anatomy (such as eyes, soft tissue, and other parts) are artificial or replicated. Different animals may require specialized procedures (such as the use of artificial heads or feet for certain birds). Fantasy or alternative taxidermy doesn't necessarily seek to represent the animal in its natural form, but chooses to be more interpretive. Many alternative artists use traditional techniques in order to create a high quality work. I think both serve a purpose in sparking curiosity for the natural world, and both work harmoniously in expressing the illusion of life.

Freeze drying is not technically taxidermy-it is a dehydration process where organs are removed, a preservative injected, then perishable material is frozen and the surrounding pressure is reduced to allow the water to sublimate. Without proper maintenance, freeze drying can be more susceptible to insect damage as there is more tissue left intact-however some clients choose this service for their pets since they do not like the idea of their beloved being processed. I prefer taxidermy due to its greater stability, but respect the decision a client makes regarding their pets. I do not freeze dry animals unless specifically requested.

Mummification, wet specimens, and skeletal preparations are all adjacent to taxidermy in that they preserve and display animals, but not every taxidermist is familiar with or a practices these techniques. The education and tutorials pages link to reputable sources of information on these practices, I strongly suggest reviewing them to inform your decisions in choosing a preparator.

Where do you get your animals from?

Taxidermy has had a bad reputation, but like any industry, the way we did things in the past is not how we do things today. I dedicated a page to sourcing here.

How do I ship frozen specimens to you?

Please see my shipping guide here.

How did you get into taxidermy? Where are you from?

When I was young, I would collect rocks, seashells, and flowers after playing outside of my childhood home in Miami, Florida. Though they weren’t anything rare or special, these tiny pieces of nature were treasures in my small, mostly concrete world. One evening, I saw a lizard crawl into our mosquito zapper and face the inevitable. I felt deeply for his death, but thought he would enjoy a post mortem home nestled in my collection of natural curiosities. Needless to say, he stunk after a few days, and I learned my first lesson in decomposition. This was my first experience with death, and from then on, I have always been curious about (and fascinated by) that liminal space between life and death, science and art. I’d marvel at how wildlife adapted to survive in bustling cities, and saw the preserved specimens at natural history museums as works of art.

I always thought anatomy and inner workings were beautiful, fascinated at how the inside and outside of something works harmoniously. I pursued taxidermy first as a hobby by reading manuals, watching instructional videos, and eventually seeking out professional training. Although I have been practicing in some form since 2007, I made a career change in 2015, and am constantly reading, experimenting, and learning. We are lucky to live in a time of endless possibilities and ever changing technology, so I try to use this to my advantage in never passing up an opportunity to learn or share. The interspecies connection is something that can teach us all.

Where I am from-I have roots in South Asia and Jamaica. I grew up in Miami and now live in NYC.

Why do you think women are taking a new interest in taxidermy?

Women working in these fields isn't exactly new, though there are more women working in these fields now simply because the access and opportunity exists now where it hasn't in the past (we no longer live in an era where women are completely unwelcome in the workplace because of laws or cultural norms). These same reasons are why there are more women now in the arts, sciences, tech, or anything-women in these fields have existed throughout history.

My favorite historical women taxidermists are Jane Tost and Ada Rohu (the Australian mother daughter duo, who, in addition to winning numerous awards for their traditional and whimsical work, fought for equal pay back in the 1800s) and Martha Maxwell (a talented, eccentric American artist known for her elaborate exhibit of over 1000 animals at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial cheekily titled “Women’s Work”). As a person of color, I am very much drawn to the stories of John Edmonstone, the Black taxidermist who survived slavery and taught Charles Darwin the preservation techniques that were vital to his scientific contributions, and Carl Cotton, the Field Musuem’s first Black taxidermist. Intersectionality is incredibly important when we are considering the historical implications of who has access to what and why.

Depending on the culture, women have traditionally been the in charge of the home (which could include the preparation of hunted meat for mealtime) and as caretakers of the dead (tasked with washing, funerary duties, and last rites). And let's also not forget the Victorian fancywork manuals with glorious details on why bird taxidermy was a great women's pastime. At the same time, colonization also changed or eliminated a lot of traditional practices around death and preservation, and the binary norms of gender. With all this, it really doesn't seem like such a "novelty" that women are drawn to this art form. I hope by being visible and creating spaces, more diverse people feel welcome and participate in this art form as well. 

Does being a woman offer differently informed perspective or approach? Maybe, but like any artist, the sum of my entire identity and experience informs my work far more than a single part. It’s important not to reduce this so a trend-many people are passionate about wildlife, many of us live in an era where more people are having less contact with the natural world. So being visible so more people can tell their own stories and traditions, is a great thing!

Why does some taxidermy get eaten by insects?

Insects and taxidermy have a very complicated relationship. In some ways, a piece of taxidermy can be compared to a fur coat or wool sweater, except instead of hanging in your closet, the piece is on display. Just as your natural fiber based garments are susceptible to moths and carpet beetles, the same can apply to taxidermy-especially for pieces that are of unverified provenance, or haven’t been consistently cared for (such as vintage or garage sale pieces). The use of arsenic-based solutions in commercial tanning processes has been banned for decades due to environmental and health concerns, even though it was seen by many as a super effective bug proofer. Since the ban took place in stages (so commercial operations were able to transition out of the old toxic products and into the new without losing too much), it can be a bit difficult to determine whether or not a piece has been treated with arsenic or not (so you should always handle old pieces with care!) 

Despite all this, a good taxidermist takes many important steps to protect their work from insect damage-including thorough fleshing, cleaning, degreasing, and proper tanning/preservation. There are absolutely no shortcuts or substitutes for these steps. Many choose to add a bug proofer to their mounts, but none of these bug proofers are permanent-so no matter if its old or new, its is important to properly store and maintain taxidermy. Store in a cool, relatively dry place away from direct sunlight, and regularly clean/dust your pieces, and make sure to keep your home clean too, sealing up and cracks that insects may use to enter. Pieces can also be kept in a glass display dome (some even hide a moth ball or mot square in the habitat, and change them out every 6-8 months) or in a display cabinet. But bugs can still get into glass cases and cabinets, especially microscopic larvae, so regular checking and maintenance is important no matter what. Pheromone baited moth traps are helpful, as they can alert you to a moth problem and can eventually slow the reproduction of larva (as its the immature larva that eat the fur, not the flying adults. The traps work by attracting the male moths, thus making it more difficult for them to breed and make new larvae). Please note that clothing moths and pantry moths are different species - so the traps designed for one, may not work for the other.

Though cedar, lavender, and other essential oils are widely recommended, there hasn’t been much scientific proof for the efficacy of these methods, and the concentrations one would need to maintain to see even a small result are likely impractical or even dangerous. Based on my experience with private collectors, museums, and personal observation, it seems the best treatment is regular cleaning and monitoring-the work involved in regularly maintaining taxidermy is well worth the reward.

Insect damaged pieces can be cleaned and treated, but since techniques and preparations have varied so much, each piece should be professionally evaluated on a case by case basis. Please use precautions - I do not condone inexperienced handling of toxic insecticides. Many “natural” and “non-toxic” pesticides may also be fatally harmful to your pets-please research ingredients thoroughly using scientifically backed/peer-reviewed sources.

How do I take care of and store my taxidermy or freeze dry?

Caring for taxidermy, freeze dry, or pelts is similar to how you would care for a fur coat or wool sweater. For freeze dry, due to the increased risk of insects, I check pieces weekly where taxidermy, I check every 2 weeks or even monthly depending on location. Keep in a cool, relatively dry place away from direct sunlight and severe fluctuations in temperature or humidity. You should regularly clean and dust your piece, using a soft, clean brush, controlled stream of cool air from an air compressor or blowdryer, and/or a gentle vacuum (depending on the type of piece). Pests like to settle in undisturbed locations, so doing this helps (but you want to be gentle so you dont stress the fur, feathers, or skin!) Storage in a glass case or cabinet helps protect your piece too, but keep in mind pests may be able to penetrate any case that is not airtight. Although mounts are treated with insecticides and preserving agents, they are not permanent deterrents. Beetles and moths can be attracted to eating the hair or feathers of a totally clean piece or pelt, just as they do with fur and wool garments, so it is a good idea to take measures to keep your home bug free (see the section on insects). Depending on the mount, treatments can be done yearly by a professional exterminator. I also suggest regular cleaning routines to keep your home clean, keeping pests out by sealing cracks, and use non-toxic pheromone baited moth traps to stay abreast of any possible issues. Please use precautions - I do not condone inexperienced handling of toxic insecticides.

I just took a class with you and need a reminder on care instructions!

Thanks for taking a class! To care for your piece, keep it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and away from your pets. I adjust and groom the piece each day as it dries in order to lock the hair/fur/feather follicles into place. Be sure to watch everything as it dries, especially the facial features and paws. Make sure none of the skin shifts around while drying (pins can help keep things in place, but sometimes things move depending on the humidity and conditions in your home). If anything moves, use your fingers or a modeling tool to put it back into place. You can also dry your piece slowly in the refrigerator or freezer. Once everything is dry (1 week to 1 month, depending on how large the piece is and environmental conditions), you can do finishing work. For sculpting shrunken tissue around the eyelids, paws, inner ear details I use epoxy clay like Apoxie Sculpt. For adding color back to areas where it has faded as a result of the preservation process, I use an airbrush, thin washes of paint, and/or powdered pigments. Once finished and dry, you can put your piece under a dome, glass case, or in a display cabinet. Also see the questions about bugs and mount care to provide long term protection for your work.

Is taxidermy toxic?

Finished pieces are not toxic. The chemicals I use are safe and effective, and no ill effects to your health will come from regularly touching and handling your piece. However, the dirt and oils from your hands can adversely effect your piece if accumulated over time, and I do not recommend licking, biting, or consuming parts or pieces. Antique and vintage pieces may be treated chemicals no longer in use today, so they should be handled with care.

How will my pets react to my new piece of taxidermy?

Some pets are very curious, some pets do not care! It is dependent on the personality of each pet. Since animal hides and foliage are natural products, even after through preservation, animals are naturally intrigued-especially with birds and small mammals. I know my cats see bird and small mammal taxidermy as cute realistic cat toys, and my birds will attack any small bird taxidermy, so I store my collection out of reach, secured with museum gel, and/or in a glass domes. I am happy to provide storage and display ideas! Many clients ask me about positive reinforcement and training techniques for their pets, and while these are vital to the enrichment and mental health of any pet, it will only go so far, and we must be realistic in our expectations. It is much easier to control display methods for deceased animals as opposed to setting unfair expectations for live ones!

Speaking of pets, will you preserve my pet?

On a case by case basis, and usually in a traditional or restful pose. The relationship between you and your pet is sacred. Since we have a very specific and incredibly personal attachment to our pets, it is hard to capture a lifetime of personality in a pet without some variance. Where I see anatomy, you see memories. For some, it is difficult to see their pet transformed into what is a still, non moving sculpture, where for others, it truly helps with the grieving process. As much as I love my cats and birds, I know that even the best taxidermist in the world can't give me back the years and personal memories of our shared experiences. I will be happy to discuss the specifics of your pet in a free phone consultation. Alternatives to pet taxidermy are skull cleaning and display, memento mori displays or jewelry, aquamation, paw prints and nose impressions. For those looking to freeze dry their pets, I work with a reputable facility and can accommodate some requests. Please review the information in the Pets section of my website.

Where can I learn taxidermy? And where can I find info about your classes?

Please take a look at the Education page and all the resources linked there, from laws to free tutorials, or join my Learn Taxidermy Discord Server. To take a class with me, please see the the Events tab. All classes are listed, linked with full descriptions and prices. I am also available for private classes, usually booked 3-6 months in advance. Teaching taxidermy is an age old practice and there are many instructors aside from me out there! I highly recommend joining your state or local taxidermy association, and going to their yearly shows, which include workshops, seminars, and even vendors of tools and supplies. If you are in the NYC area, please join me at any of the shows in the area-I regularly attend the New England and New Jersey Shows, and produce my own show in NYC called Wunderkammer. If you are in another state and worried about being alone, please feel free to contact me and I will happily connect you to taxidermists I may know in your area that are friendly to beginners. Even if you don't compete, or want to focus on less traditional work, you'll meet experienced taxidermists, see what makes quality work, and get inspired by the techniques in action at the seminars. Taxidermy.net has a number of tutorials on a dizzying array of topics, and Breakthrough Magazine has manuals, archives, and current publications that are extremely helpful. I have also co-authored a book for beginners called “Stuffed Animals: A Modern Guide to Taxidermy” and have a Reading List.

Will you come to my town/city/country and do a class?

YES! I take great joy in sharing my love for taxidermy with people near and far, and would be happy to work with you to share the transformative joy of taxidermy with you. I have taught in shops, galleries, and private homes so the venue can be versatile. For full cost classes, I usually require a minimum number of students in order to make travel sustainable. I also offer scholarship classes for QTBIPOC. In all cases, specifics can be customized by each situation or request. Please email me for details.

Do you ship taxidermy internationally?

Shipping taxidermy and other animal products internationally requires a great deal of paperwork and permits from U.S. and international customs. At the moment, these costs are prohibitive for me so I do not ship internationally. If you have a special request and are willing to collaborate on these fees and the paperwork, certain pieces may be available for overseas shipping based on your location. .

What do I do if I find a dead bird? Can you mount it for me?

Before doing anything else, please identify it using a recent field guide or ID app (like Merlin) and report it to D-Bird here! This is one of The Audubon Society’s community science tools-the information you contribute them will help advance avian conservation. Even if you are not located in NYC, you can use D-Bird! If you find an eagle, please contact the National Eagle Repository here.

I can mount your deceased bird only if it is legal! You can learn more about laws protecting birds here. Almost all birds in the U.S. are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. This means their parts are illegal to possess or sell (including feathers, feet, bones, eggs, etc.). It does not matter how the specimen is acquired-whether you found it dead, even if it is a found feather, a protected species is a protected species. It is a Federal law and penalties can include jail time, confiscation of the pieces, and huge fines upwards of $10,000.

Institutions such as museums, colleges, and nature preserves can legally possess these birds with the proper paperwork. Currently, private individuals cannot get these licenses. Exceptions are also made for Indigenous communities and ceremonial use. If you find a bird, you can contact one of these groups or facilities in your area to see if they can take it. They will instruct you on transport and details. If they need a taxidermist to mount their bird, you’re welcome to mention me.

If you cannot find anyone to take the bird, you cannot keep it. Some people choose to take memorial photos, or cover the bird in foliage for a dignified end. If you find roadkill, and only if it is SAFE to do so, please move it away from busy roads so scavengers do not risk getting hit by cars.

If your home or building experiences window collisions, please read this article on easy steps you can take to prevent them. You can also advocate for Bird Safe Buildings - check with your local Audubon Society or other conservation org for more.

Game birds are legal, as long as the proper paperwork is present (tags, proof of legal harvest, hunting license, state specific papers). Although these specimen can be mounted, they cannot be sold/re-sold. Domestically raised birds are legal (again, the proper proof and paperwork are needed) and non native invasive species such as English House Sparrows, European Starlings, and feral pigeons are legal as well. If you find an MBTA protected bird and want to see it preserved, call your local wildlife department, Audubon Society, or natural history museum to see if they will collect it-though it may not be in your collection, it will be legally housed used for educational purposes. 

Antiques fall under a grey area, as it can be difficult to prove provenance and whether or not a piece was created before certain laws were in effect-the best advice I have for someone with antiques is to contact your local wildlife officers and get everything in writing.

These laws may seem tedious, but their purpose is to aid in the conservation of wildlife- which is a huge part of being a taxidermist. With the wide array of perfectly legal birds, there are plenty of options if you are looking to acquire a piece of beautiful bird taxidermy! I should also mention that I am not a lawyer, and hold no liability for the behavior of those who read this.

Do you clean and repair old taxidermy?

Yes, on a case by case basis. I work at George Dante Studios for all historic restoration and conservation work. Not every taxidermist understands the nuance and delicacy involved in repair, restoration, and conservation of taxidermy - there are many factors involved like understanding material chemistry and compatibility, historic accuracy, safe handling, and other elements. I strongly recommend investing in a practicioner with experience, one of my most common requests is fixing the mistakes of others!

Do you take hunter’s trophies?

If legally documented and taken. My speciality is birds, so I’m not the person to go to for deer heads and big game. But if you have some woodcocks, quail, pheasants and such, I’d be more than happy to help preserve your memories.